Lest We Forget: The Canary Birds

At the 11th day of the 11th month in 1918, millions had drenched the soil with their blood, in France and elsewhere in Europe. The red poppy is said to be the only flower that would grow on the battlefield once the earth was torn open by thousands of trenches and countless artillery grenades, tank shells and bombs. Canadian Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae’s poem In Flanders Fields has eloquently captured this image, which served to create the symbolism the poppy flower has had since then.

A professing history buff, I have dug deep into my archives to bring you this WWI photo, courtesy of my extended family. It shows my girlfriend’s great- grandfather Nicklas  [last row, center] posing for a picture with some of members of his unit, the famed Canary Birds of 5th Company, 1/118 Infantry- Regiment „Prinz Carl“. Based in the City of Worms on the Rhine River in Western Germany, the unit had earned its nickname in reference to the yellow epaulets and cuffs that adorned their uniforms. After the start of the war, the Regiment saw action at the Battle of the Marne in 1914, the Battle of Verdun in 1916 and the Battle of Arras in 1917. To this day, a memorial in Worms serves to preserve their heritage.

The members of 5th Company, 1st Battalion of 118th Infantry- Regiment pose for a photo at an undisclosed location sometime between 1914 and 1918.

Dedicated to the memory of all those who gave their lives in the line of duty, in Europe and elsewhere. Lest we forget.

Three Tours in Afghanistan, a Soldier Speaks up (Part I)

It was his almost brutal candor that struck me first when I met this Major at an Afghan National Police Headquarters in Qalat City earlier this year. Now on his third tour in Afghanistan, his pieces of wisdom were grounded on a military career of over 20 years with multiple deployments to Bosnia, Iraq, and Afghanistan both as NCO and as an officer. A Bachelor of Arts in political science had neither managed to curb his outspokenness nor the no- bullshit, can- do attitude that is typical of a senior NCO worth his salt.

Waning domestic support both in the U.S. and in Europe has generated a perceived need to spin the war in the right direction at ISAF Headquarters in Kabul, which in turn has led to a surge in PR efforts that by now are at an all- time high. These efforts have been accompanied by all the expected twisting and bending, but they have also fostered a climate of ever- present delusions that at times have even degenerated into outright dishonesty.

These efforts have permeated all the way down to the Battalion level, where frankness is a rather unusual trait amongst the legions of field grade officers who fill the staff positions. Against this background, the nonconformist Major in Qalat clearly stood out. I gained some valuable information from him at the time, especially as he was the senior ISAF mentor at the Zabul OCCP (Operational Coordination Center, Provincial), a joint ISAF- Afghan intelligence fusion cell and command center that serves to coordinate coalition and Afghan military planning and operations. He had been a mentor with an ETT (embedded training team) on a previous tour and had acquired a better sense of Afghan culture and its customs than many of his fellow peers and was thus held in high regard by the senior Afghan army and police officers he worked with.

Members of the Afghan National Police take a break in one of the guard towers at the ANP Headquarters in Qalat City, Zabul province in March 2011.

This Major, who wishes to remain anonymous has been kind enough to send me his take on the war in Afghanistan. It is an extensive 39- page reckoning based on anecdotes from his 44 months on the ground. He delves deeply into some of the core issues of the war, as well as the inner workings of the U.S. military. and offers insights that add an additional perspective to and at times contradicts the official line ISAF has championed in public.

I have received his permission to quote freely from his work, so I will feature some excerpts in a two- part series of articles to highlight several key points he raised. I’ll also offer some additional comments along the way. I have occasionally made very slight changes to the text to allow for better readability, without altering the meaning of what is being said. His work appears in block quotation, the rest is all mine. I have also added some links to external sources throughout the whole article.

The Allies You Have or: Bad Apples on both Sides of the Durand Line

The role of Pakistan and more precisely that of the Inter- Service- Intelligence (ISI) has been subject to much public and behind- closed doors scrutiny. While the controversial nature of ISI involvement in Afghanistan is nothing new and well- known, the following excerpt sheds light on the nature of their activities in Afghanistan and corroborates the view that the ISI has never cut ties with its proxies but continues supporting the insurgency in Afghanistan.

[..] on any given day we had multiple reports of Pakistanis operating in our area of operations, including various Punjabis wandering through. [..] It’s a sign of just how arrogant the ISI has gotten that they now just flow through the border at will. We constantly had the ISI meeting with the local Taliban, who would actually video tape attacks on Coalition Forces to as fundraising tools to present their Pakistani masters and show they are worthy of financial aid. [..] The Pakistani Frontier Force has no problem shooting at Americans (along with the occasional murder staged during a border flag visit) but somehow manages to miss whole company and battalion-size movements of dushman (bandits) that are heading into Afghanistan, and doing so right beside their checkpoints.

He continues offer a brief insight into the ISAF supply chain and the Pakistani trucking business and reveals a nice trick on how to lay your hands on stuff that isn’t yours, although the phrase “fallen off the truck” doesn’t fully apply.

Goods are shipped up through Spin Boldak, giving numerous opportunities for public officials to profit on through bribes while thieves raided stuff at will. The best trick: bypass the locks and seals on a shipping container by taking the top off, go shopping for what you want, replace it with an equivalent weight in sandbags, then re-weld the top. Best of all, the Americans will accept your governments excuse that they can’t control their own country, so buyer beware! And don’t forget to give the local officials their cut. And if those pesky Americans have the nerve to actually attack the insurgents using your “Tribal Areas” as a refuge, just arrange some attacks on their fuel supplies coming in so they know who is boss.

You can find more on this topic in Warlord Inc. – Extortion and Corruption Along
the U.S. Supply Chain in Afghanistan
, a June 2010 report compiled by the U.S. House of Representatives Subcommittee on National Security and Foreign Affairs. The findings of this report “range from sobering to shocking” as the preface accurately states. They include that “security for the U.S. supply chain is principally provided by warlords”, that those “Highway Warlords run a protection racket” and that “payments for safe passage are a significant potential source of funding for the Taliban”. Other findings state that “unaccountable supply chain security contractors fuel corruption” and that this rather unsurprisingly undermines the U.S. counterinsurgency strategy. Most recently, the AP reported on the efforts to combat this problem, for which the international community is as responsible as are Afghans.

Allies on the Afghan side of the border, most importantly those associated with Afghan President Hamid Karzai are known to be involved in a variety of legitimate businesses, but they also operate in rather murky waters.

The entire Karzai family is a loss. One of his brothers, Mahmoud Karzai, is a war profiteer, including having interests and kickbacks from construction projects that the U.S. pours of millions and millions of dollars into. How bad is this? At COP Rath my Executive Officer caught a contract made in Kabul that involved paying a $100,000 contractor to fix a meter-wide hole in the roof of one, old stone building we used. General Petraeus is 100% right, money is ammunition in a counterinsurgency. But like any other ammunition you got to actually hit your target and not just spray it around.

President Karzai’s other brother, Ahmed Wali Karzai (AWK), is an even bigger win for Rule of Law. In addition to profiting from the out-of-control security companies [..] he is generally acknowledged as one of the biggest Opium dealers in southern Afghanistan. This is a consensus despite his regular protestations of innocence. The running joke with Afghans when President Karzai talks some nonsense about being hard on the drug trade is: “What’s he going to do, arrest his brother?”

View from COP Rath in the town of Hutal in Maywand district, Kandahar province in April 2011: Poppy fields grow right next to the outpost's fortified walls.

The Karzai brothers exploits are well documented. According to the NYT, Mahmoud Karzai, Hamid Karzai’s older brother “ran restaurants in the United States before the attacks of Sept. 11, 2001, and is widely seen as one of the most powerful and well-connected business leaders in Kabul.” When the Kabul Bank scandal hit the news, the paper reported that when Mahmoud Karzai “wanted to invest in a cement factory, he took out a $2.9 million loan; he also took out $6 million for a town house in Dubai. The terms were hard to beat: no collateral, little or no interest. And no repayment due date.” According to the report, he has agreed to pay back a small portion of what he (permanently) loaned, but two months later, a commission set up by Hamid Karzai to investigate the scandal stated he had paid his dues and cleared him of any wrongdoing.

Ahmad Wali Karzai was the most well- known brothers of President Karzai until his assassination by a close associate in July 2011. A key ally of the Government in Kabul, he was arguably the most important power broker in Kandahar. He was rumored to have ties to illicit drug trade as well as to the CIA, both allegations which he has vigorously denied. The most comprehensive compendium of his activities can be found in this report, or read a shorter profile here.

The Afghan National Security Forces: To Serve and Extort

Much has been written about the Afghan National Security Forces, that is the Afghan National Army (ANA), the Afghan National Police (ANP), including various sub- branches in both services. Trained by NTM-A/ CSTC-A, the NATO training mission in Afghanistan, the ANSF are heralded as a key component for the stability and future of Afghanistan. Their capacities,  capabilities and performance is usually closely tied to the quality of the NATO unit they partner with. Rating their performance has become a number’s game, due to the quantitative approach championed by the NTM-A chain of command while qualitative metrics have been put on the backburner.

Members of the Afghan National Police Headquarters Reserve Kandak escort a person of interest outside as they conduct a raid on a target in the City of Qalat, Zabul province in March 2011.

One key factor to their success (or failure) is how the ANSF are perceived by the Afghan public. Ultimately, it is the Afghan people who bestow legitimacy upon their security forces and this is where they face their greatest challenges. Both the ANA and ANP have been hampered by chronic corruption and have resorted to extortion, even though the ANA has received better ratings in consecutive polls. The Major’s illustrations shed light on this issue.

But you know we all got it wrong. The police should have been our first priority, way ahead of the army. The insurgency isn’t as much a philosophical one as one based on who is best equipped to maintain law and order, or at least order of some kind. The central Afghan government has traditionally sucked pond water at executing this to the slightest degree. The biggest issue ISAF has faced is that the local Afghan looks at the police as uniformed thieves with a mandate to steal from the government, usually with no small amount of justification. My neighbor in 2010 and 2011 was the police chief in Zabul who was constantly reported to deal in poppy production and opium smuggling, while his police were notorious for thievery, to the point they stole humanitarian assistance goods when “supporting” the Provincial Reconstruction Team. I had Afghans ask that ISAF soldiers enter their home instead of local police who would steal anything not nailed down and they would much rather go through an American checkpoint than a local police one as we didn’t steal their money.

The police are the most visible sign of the Afghan government and rule of law. If an Afghan would rather deal with a foreigner than his own police it is what we call a “loss”. It doesn’t have to be this way. In the Hutal Hub in Maiwand, Kandahar we had a complete role reversal. The local ANA were a complete write-off who terrorized the locals while the local ANP had one of the best reputations I have ever seen with the local population, to the point the locals asked local police to put in more checkpoints (you have to have a couple of Afghan tours to appreciate just how shocked I was to hear this). But this was the result a strong-willed District Police Chief named Namatullah who had some interesting methods to maintain good order and disciple.

Back in early 2007 I had one fear [..] and that was that I would get diverted from training the Afghan National Army [ANA] to training the Afghan National Police [ANP]. After my local soldiers adopted me I really wasn’t that worried about them turning on me in my sleep (them falling asleep or just being high while on night guard was another matter of course). At lovely FOB Massoud we lent our ANA our night optics in the evening as someone had to watch the fence as much as we tried to be up 24/7, and we never had an issue. But both our ANA and we mentors shared a deep concern when the ANP showed up, so much that the ANA platoon sergeant put an interior guard on a group of police coming to take over the FOB “so they won’t kill us in our sleep” (smart NCO for all of his two years in uniform). My local, deputy police chief, a former Taliban himself who proudly boasted that he knew all the local Taliban, and had beaten one our interpreters back in Kabul years before, came up to me and said he was worried as “at least half of those police are Taliban. I wouldn’t trust them.” [..] If the ANA had issues it still was a regular formation of Audie Murphy clones compared to the ANP.

Now the picture is more faceted than one might think. All in all, this Major’s experiences are entirely conceivable and reflect, at least in part, my own experiences. Having spent time with both the ANA and ANP on the ground as embedded reporter, I have seen units performing on a scale that ranged from both reasonably competent to abysmal. There are several decisive factors that add up to the total performance of a unit.

A member of the Afghan National Police stops the traffic on Highway No. 1 during a joint Afghan and U.S patrol of the Bazaar (local market) in the town of Hutal in Maywand district, Kandahar province in April 2011.

First off, there are newly composed units fresh out of basic training opposed to units that have completed several year- long tours in various parts of the country. Personnel is a key issue: Leader competence varies greatly, and the ANA does not have a strong NCO tradition to fall back on, which forms the backbone of most professional armies. Then, the performance is also dependent on the environment a unit operates in. Units deployed to contested areas are subject to more fighting and violence and thus tend to have a lack of discipline, suffer from low morale and face higher attrition rates, although that does not apply as a general rule but constitutes more of a tendency.

Finally, stay tuned for part II of this series, where I will feature the Major’s take on sexy topics such as the role of territory and the AfPak border for COIN operations, wild Afghan PMCs as well as U.S. military shortfalls in pre- deployment language/ cultural training and the inadequacy of the weapons and ammunition U.S. troops have to fight with.

On the Eve of History: Shooting the Afghan War with a WWII Camera

The American soldier crouched in front of me had just started hacking into the dried mud with his combat knife as I moved up from further down the line. The soldiers were spread out over a desolate criss-cross pattern of grape and poppy fields down in Kandahar’s Panjwayi district in Southern Afghanistan. Military intelligence reports had indicated the potential for IEDs, the insurgent’s weapon of choice in the area. These Improvised Explosive Devices would unleash their deadly payload either at the call of a trigger man on the other end of the command wire, trough simple, diabolic mechanisms such as the pressure plate, or, less frequent, a call to a cell phone that is wired to the explosive charge. Now, the mine detector had just sounded off, an uneasy and alarming beep that told its operator to hold it and get down into the dirt, for the sake of his own live as well as that of those around him.

A U.S. Army soldier digs for a possible IED in Pajwayi district of Kandahar, April 2011.

I pulled the old camera out of its bag. It had seen soldiers digging into the ground before.

It unfolded instantly at the press of a button, prompting a sharp sound as its bellows snapped into place. A slight squeeze on its side caused the small viewfinder to pop up.

It had seen all the dust and dirt that embodies the front line, any front line.

Distance to the subject, maybe 1,5 meters (5 feet). The front lens slid smoothly into place, focusing on the soldier who tried to dig up whatever had caused the mine detector to relay its urgent message.

It had seen sweat stained uniforms and all the grime that coats those who put their life on the line for a higher cause, for those back home or simply for their buddies who share the misery common to front line troops.

The ISO 400 film around noon on a sunny spring day called for a short exposure time and a small aperture. I set a tiny metal lever to a 1/125 of a second, another lever set the         f- stop at 8.

It had seen the anxiety that comes when you try to unearth something that might kill you: How far would the blade slice through the earth until it hit something solid, the last object it might ever touch?

The undersized viewfinder didn’t qualify for intricate compositions but only gave a rather vague impression of what might actually end up in the photo. A soft click and the moment was captured on grainy film.

It certainly had seen its fair share of all those moments soldiers in war endure, grueling boredom, deadly terror and pretty much everything in between.

I slid the cover off the two peepholes on the back of the camera that revealed the backside of the film. I flipped a turning knob at the bottom of the camera and cranked the film forward; 8 photos left.

It had seen combat, even though its previous owner had never taken any pictures of what many consider the ultimate experience of war. He had been too busy pulling the trigger of his heavy machine gun, trying to kill those who tried to kill him..

The American soldier pulled up a piece of rusted wire, an expression of relief mixed with an air of annoyance appeared on his face. His laborious work had only yielded a meager find.

Finally, it had seen the young faces of soldiers who had made the ultimate sacrifice and were long since gone. The inimitable General Douglas MacArthur once famously said “old soldiers never die; they just fade away”, and as time had passed, the images of those young men had faded as well. “A good comrade, fallen” the backside of one photo would read, “Company commander, fallen” another.

The small weight of the Zeiss IKON camera was nothing compared to the burden of safeguarding it from the Afghan environment, which has never been as kind to the delicate optomechanics of cameras as Afghans are to their guests. But that feeling was outweighed by the immeasurable honor of shooting war with it, almost 70 years after my grandfather had documented his own war, fighting on the unforgiving Eastern Front with the German Wehrmacht as an infantry soldier from 1941 until 1945.

70 years earlier: My grandfather, Gefreiter (PFC) Alfred Schellenberger in a trench. Precise dates and locations are mostly unknown, but all photos on display were taken on the Eastern Front between 1941 - 45.

When my grandfather Alfred Schellenberger died at the blessed age of 90 last year, he didn’t leave much behind. He had moved to a retirement home after his wife of 60 years had died a few years ago, and all he had taken with him were a few necessary items and a collection of old family photos. He kept one other item in his closet though, a lock box with some money and a few other prized possessions: the various medals he had earned.

Having lived through the horrors and countless savage battles on the Eastern Front, he never fully understood and condoned why I would go to war on my volition, which is understandable given the fact that he was drafted into service. But when he started telling his war stories, which at times degenerated into short wild rants, I was the only one at the table whose face wouldn’t show that annoyed “there- he- goes- again” look.

I had shared a few intimate moments with him when he relayed to me with a low murmuring voice how he had escaped death numerous times and how he had inflicted death on his enemies. He wouldn’t maintain eye contact when he told his stories, but when he was done he would cautiously risk a look and realize I was with him and grasped what he had meant to say. He and I both knew back then that the experience of war can be told and explained to others, but never be absolutely, fully understood by those who haven’t been there.

It didn’t come as a surprise that he chose me as the caretaker of his war memorabilia once he would be gone.

Alfred Schellenberger, manning his M 34 machine gun position.

It was in early 1945 when the retreat of the Wehrmacht back towards Germany became more frantic and the signs of disintegration became too obvious to ignore that he and a few of his comrades realized that the war was lost. My grandfather had just been shot through the hand, fighting the advance of a Red Army that was hungry for revenge and already certain of victory. His unit, the 252. Infantry Regiment was in a state of dissolution, a “no- holds- barred type of situation” as he had told me one night.

From a military point of view, it was desertion. From a survival point of view, it was common sense. He and a few trusted comrades somehow made their way up north until they reached the Baltic Sea and hijacked a German patrol boat at gunpoint. They made their way to the East coast of Denmark in a grueling trip through mine- infested, ice- cold waters that lasted “one day and one night” as he put it, dodging enemy planes and submarines. Once they were back ashore they turned south, and headed West immediately after they had crossed the Danish- German border. They surrendered to the first U.S. Army unit they came across.

“We knew exactly what awaited us should we be captured by the Russians” my Grandfather had said, “after all we had done to them”. They knew the only way to avoid almost certain death at Russian hands or being picked up by German authorities and sent East again to be used as cannon fodder was to get captured by the U.S. Army and end the war as a POW.

The plan had saved his life, and now I held his U.S. POW personal data sheet, issued in English and German. “Discharged by the Authority of the 12. U.S. Army Group” a faded stamp read in the upper right corner of the document. He was 25 years old upon his release.

Alfred Schellenberger's U.S. Army POW file from 1945.

It was this document, together with the photos from the front lines I had inherited that pushed me to bring his old camera out of retirement. A solid piece of work, its sturdy medal body encapsulates a set of intricate fine mechanics and is a representation of what many consider a pre- war masterpiece of German engineering. It’s safe to assume that in 70 years, my state- of – the- art DSLR cameras will probably be reduced to a lump of molten plastic and electronics, yet this medium- format Zeiss IKON 515 still works. Build sometimes around 1937, it features a “Nettar- Anastigmat” 1:6,3 F= 7,5cm lens with exposure times ranging from 1/15 to 1/125, a bulb mode and even a self- timer. As a former subsidiary of the Carl Zeiss AG, Zeiss IKON doesn’t produce cameras anymore, but in 2004, Zeiss introduced a new IKON camera to revive the famous brand.

The Zeiss IKON 515 camera that saw use on the Eastern and Afghan front lines.

Fast forward 70 years and I take photos with it again, this time of U.S. soldiers, my grandfather’s former enemies. They gladly host me, and as it turns out, covering their fight with this camera is a humbling experience to say at least. It also touches the single most fascinating aspect of this project: the timelessness of war and the images it provides. Taken with the same camera 70 years later, the similarity between those who fight their wars and the misery they endure is evident.

A group of 2/3 Marines pose for a picture in Helmand province, Afghanistan, May 2011.

70 years before, the camera recorded another group of soldiers.

A group of German soldiers poses for a picture next to the horse carts that were used to transport their supplies. My grandfather is the person on the far left.

 Almost all soldiers and Marines I took photos of were honored to have their pictures taken and in awe of this low- tech piece of equipment and the story it carried. The support I received from their end was amazing, given the fact I had had some early doubts that some wouldn’t like to see their images next to that of a German soldier from WW II.

Afghan National Army (ANA) soldiers take a break after securing a compound during an operation in Kandahar province, Afghanistan, April 2011.

While Afghan National Army (ANA) soldiers use the M16 assault rifle, my grandfather’s military occupational specialty as a machine gunner meant he and one of his fellow soldiers carried and often enough fired their crew- served MG 34.

My grandfather and another comrade clean their MG 34 machine gun in front of a bunker.

What prevailed through all this was a compassion that is strange to most civilians, a manifestation of the strong bond forged by war that ties a group of soldiers closer together than anything peace times could ever produce. Sometimes this feeling extends to other soldiers, armies or even enemies as their plight is remarkably similar and almost instinctively comprehensible. The soldiers and Marines simply could relate to what they saw in my grandfathers photos and some paid their heartfelt respect to him even though they never knew him. “He was a soldier just like us”, one of them had said.

Dedication and Acknowledgements

Above all, this project is dedicated in loving memory to Alfred Schellenberger (1920 – 2010), who by all accounts was a fine soldier and an even better grandfather to me.

It is also dedicated to all the U.S. Army soldiers and U.S. Marines who have hosted me so kindly as they were fighting in Afghanistan. Without their cooperation, this project would not have been possible. Equal gratitude and appreciation go to the ANSF.

Finally, shout- outs also go to the Carl Zeiss Lens Team. Your predecessors really knew how to make a good product. I trust their legacy is in good hands.

War, too Close for Comfort

Simon Klingert

Simon Klingert runs for cover during a firefight at a combat outpost in Afghanistan

“So have you ever seen someone die?”

It was about two minutes into our conversation when the question had popped up. The question. Not that I minded though. After all, it seems like a natural question to ask when you tell people you’re trying to make a living as a war correspondent and it dawns on them you actually like what you are doing. Plus, there was a genuine curiosity in the young girl’s voice that hinted she isn’t bent on provoking me. She simply reacted to this anomaly that suddenly dropped in on her as she was riding the train to town, out for a Saturday night of fun and booze- fueled oblivion.

“Yeah, I have seen people getting killed. I’ve taken photos of people who were dying right in front of my lens.”

Raw images of an ANA soldier with ghastly injuries flashed into my mind from somewhere deep down in my consciousness, where he had found his resting place. Take a step back and you can see me with my camera, snapping away as the last of his blood oozes through his punctured skin, his life slowly fading away. The IED sure had done its job, and so had I.

I found myself staring at the floor in front of me, the train rushing through the pitch- black night. How long had I been out? It couldn’t have been more than a second or two. The awkward silence from across the aisle told me it was long enough to notice a nerve had been touched. Suddenly, the war had come close and neither the girl nor her two male companions felt too comfortable in its presence. I didn’t even blame them.

“It’s war, you know. People die. Nothing you can do about it.”

I was desperately trying to sound upbeat as I caught my composure, intent to show them I was fully able to talk about the war without falling into that stale burned- out war correspondent cliché. While I lacked the self- deluding qualities any military Public Affairs Officer worth his salt has to have, it was good enough for them, eager to gloss over that moment of awkwardness as they were.

War is bad. People die. Simple answers. The easy way out.

One of guys across the aisle gladly picked up on it and began to drone about the war mongering government and its lackeys, intent to let us know about the inherent futility of pursuing a war too far away for anyone to care. Minutes passed as the train continued to rush through the night.  He was a real wise guy and he knew it. He couldn’t wait to fire his next question at me, so intricate and full of assumptions it bordered on the comical.

“So tell me. Why would a sane person, fully knowing about the absolute uselessness of the war in Afghanistan, which by the way costs insane amounts of money and lives and doesn’t serve our interests, go back out there risking his life for nothing else but a few photos?”

Stay out there long enough and attitudes like this won’t bother you anymore. Unless you’re drunk maybe and you’ll snap in an instant. Not this time though.

“That is a very good question. An excellent one actually.” Three eager faces were looking at me. Hard not to notice the holier- than- thou expression on one of them.

“It is hard to explain. It is a complex question that would deserve a lengthy and possibly contradictory answer. I’m going to spare you that, as you wouldn’t understand no matter what. You simply need to be there to understand.”

Three heads slightly nodding in acknowledgement.

“Think of it as a voyage to your inner- self, where it’s just you and the unforgiving challenges you voluntarily subject yourself to. Once you’ve been there, it’s hard to walk back to a normal, regular life. That’s why you keep doing it.”

Stay out long enough and you’ll discover your own abyss. When the shit hits the fan, you might even dance on its jagged verge. Pure ecstasy. Stay even longer, staring into the black hole and you’ll find out things about yourself that you would have never even dreamed possible. Epiphany is when you wake up and find you’ve jumped over the edge a long time ago and you just keep falling.

The train was about to pull into the station. I hadn’t noticed when exactly the girl had disengaged from the conversation, but she was now making it abundantly clear.

“Come on. Can’t we finally stop talking about the war? It’s my only night out. I want to have fun!”

As I grabbed my bags and got up, I imagined seeing a slight trace of relief flickering underneath the make- up on her face. Clearly, the war had come too close for her comfort.

Numbers Game Kandahar Style

U.S. soldiers on clearing operation in Panjwayi district, Kandahar province, April 2011

The rain was pouring down relentlessly on the staggered file of Afghan and U.S. soldiers as they navigated through the seemingly endless maze of IED- invested grape and poppy fields. The fertile soil soon turned into a slick mud that coated their boots, uniforms and weapons.

The operation had kicked off the day before, when the soldiers left their base in the volatile Panjwayi district of Kandahar province, Afghanistan. The district had been an insurgent hotbed for years. Like so many times before, the soldiers fanned out into the fields to clear them from weapons, drug caches and, should they come across their ACOG gun sights, from insurgents as well.

The Platoon of soldiers I was with split into two groups as they left the road and moved cautiously forward. As we walked in a file, I looked down on the soft ground, watching how my boots took one careful step after another. What made it different from a literal walk in the park is, one step to the right or left could mean the difference between life and death out here. The soldier on point methodically scanned the ground with the Vallon, a mine detector. Occasionally, the detector would come to life with a pervasive beeping sound. The operator would get on his knees and start digging carefully, using his combat knife.

As we moved deeper into the fields, the Lieutenant received a radio call that another platoon which had been trailing us had just found a pressure plate, a device used to set off an IED, right where we had entered the field. Luckily, it wasn’t attached to an explosive charge. We exchanged quick and apprehensive looks, laughing uneasily in face of the danger.

The thunderous sound of the explosion came unexpected, as always. It wasn’t uncomfortably close but close enough for us to run back to the positions we had set up before. A gray plume of smoke rose behind a tree line about 200 meters from where we had just come from. Somebody’s number had come up.

As Kiowa helicopters started circling around us, radio reports kept coming in. The platoon that had been trailing us had found an IED in the area that we just had cleared. An explosive ordnance expert who had been with them had approached it. As he bent over it, it went off, causing severe injuries. Apparently, the front plate in his body armor had taken the bulk of the blast force. The man would live, at the cost of losing some of his limbs. We had walked right where he almost died, carefully setting one foot in front of the other.

The rain poured heavily on us now, but it couldn’t wash away the feeling that we had been incredibly lucky. The point man was almost knee- deep in mud, digging in the sludge. I kept looking at my boots. We had done everything right, we had swept the area, watched our steps, had top- notch equipment. But sometimes, that is not enough. Your number will come up eventually, no matter what.